From Amsterdam to Dubai by train

In 2022, I embarked on a new adventure, traveling from Amsterdam to Dubai using only public transportation. This journey was sparked by an invitation to speak at Expo 2020. With the Blue Bandit now a museum piece, I sought an alternative way to reach the Emirates, and taking the train felt like the most logical choice.

At first, I wasn’t even sure if such a trip was possible. But the idea captivated me: What sights would I encounter? Who would I meet along the way? What would it feel like to spend days crossing borders by train?

Planning the journey was not easy, I relied on various websites and blogs to map out a route that would take me through Europe, Turkey, and into the Persian Gulf, where a ferry would finally bring me to Dubai.

The route

Before the Covid pandemic, it was possible to travel by train all the way from Amsterdam to Bandar Abbas. However, due to train cancellations during the pandemic, I had to switch to buses at certain points to keep the journey moving.

As with any true adventure, the route shifted along the way. These unexpected changes didn’t just fill in the gaps, they added to the richness and unpredictability of the experience.

International train journey

I began my journey on the 3rd of January, leaving Amsterdam aboard two German ICE trains that brought me to Vienna, on time, which is quite unusual for a long-distance German train.

From there, I boarded the Dacia Express, the night train to Bucharest, waking up to the stunning landscapes of Transylvania.

Naturally, my train arrived late in Bucharest, because what’s an adventure without a little chaos? I had to sprint to the bus terminal to catch a 12-hour coach ride to Istanbul, giving me plenty of time to reflect on my life choices.

Wiebe Wakker standing at the Bosphorus during sunrise, in the back the Ortaköy Mosque.

Reaching Istanbul

Just 48 hours after leaving Amsterdam, I arrived at the outskirts of Istanbul. I jumped on the metro to the Bosphorus, arriving just in time to catch this stunning sunrise.

I sat down for a much-needed chai and some pide, and with two days to explore the city, I soaked in the sights at my own pace. Then I hopped on a ferry across the river, officially setting foot in Asia. From Istanbul Söğütlüçeşme Station, a quick 4-hour high-speed train took me to Turkey’s capital, Ankara.

The Dogu Express

The iconic Doğu Ekspresi turned out to be the most stunning ride of the entire journey. This route, known for its breathtaking views, travels from Ankara to Kars, cutting through Turkey’s mountainous and snow-covered landscapes. Offering a surreal experience with views of remote villages and snow covered valleys. The untouched, rural scenery and tranquility almost made me forget I hadn’t moved in 17 hours.

And all of this for just €3, less than the price of a kebab. Easily the best deal of the trip.

Denied entry to Iran

Traveling through Iran was crucial for completing this journey without flying. Just as I was preparing to leave, Iran unexpectedly announced a 15-day border closure. Determined to stick to my original plan, I adjusted my schedule, spending extra time in Istanbul and aiming to reach the border on day 16, hopeful it would reopen.

But when I arrived, the border remained closed indefinitely, with no clear answers in sight. I had to quickly switch to plan B and reimagine the rest of my journey.

Plan B – Iraq, Jordan & Saudi Arabia

I didn’t waste any time, I turned around and hopped on a bus to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. Plan B quickly proved to be even better than the original plan. The Kurds welcomed me with incredible warmth, and my time in Erbil turned into an unforgettable experience, filled with rich culture and genuine hospitality.

However, from Kurdistan, I couldn’t access Federal Iraq or Syria, and since flying carpets apparently don’t exist (massive letdown, by the way), I had to take an unavoidable flight to Amman, Jordan.

Discovering uncharted territory

Like Kurdistan, Jordan was a blank canvas for me, completely uncharted territory. This is one of the best parts of travel: arriving unexpectedly in places you know nothing about, only to discover their beauty and charm firsthand.

Amman turned out to be one of those places: a city full of surprises, rich history, and vibrant energy. As I wandered through its streets, soaking up the atmosphere, I managed to secure a bus ticket to Hail, Saudi Arabia for the next day, setting the stage for yet another unexpected adventure.

Saudi Arabia

In the middle of the night, a bus dropped me off next to a highway, 10 kilometers from Hail. Thankfully, a friendly local offered me a ride, saving me from what could have been a long walk.

From Hail, I boarded a sleek, high-speed train to Riyadh, covering hundreds of kilometers in a perfectly straight line through the desert. Each station I passed was a copy of the last, like someone designed them in SimCity, one after another. It felt strange, almost surreal.

Again I was again welcomed by friendly locals who hosted me with open arms. Eventually, a bus ride over the world’s longest straight highway (256 km without a bend) carried me to the United Arab Emirates.

Wiebe Wakker in front of Museum of the Future in Dubai, UAE.

Arrived in Dubai

After 17 days of traveling, I finally reached my destination. Unexpectedly, this journey turned out to be one of the most memorable and fascinating trips I’ve ever undertaken.

I loved seeing the scenery, people and culture gradually change. Each part of the journey brought new experiences and new faces, turning what could have been just a trip into an adventure rich with stories. It was full of discovery, connection and unpredictability, exactly how I like my travels.

I spent a few weeks in Dubai before heading home as planned: by ferry to Iran, and then, more or less, retracing my route by train back to Amsterdam.